By Jennifer Reese

Perhaps crab Louis originated at Seattle’s Olympic Club, or in San Francisco at the long-defunct Solari’s. Or in Portland, as Oregonian James Beard believed. No matter. The dish clearly hails from the West Coast, even if it does owe its name to that legendary French gourmand, Louis XIV. Fresh, sweet Dungeness crabmeat is heaped on a mound of lettuce and topped with a mayonnaise-rich dressing. Nothing could be simpler or more delicious—if it’s made well, that is.