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By Joan Ryan
C
alifornia is the Oz of America, a place shimmering on the horizon, promising riches and beauty. Anything
seems possible in California; you can shake your past, choose your future.
Every day, hopeful immigrants pour into Los Angeles, Sacramento, and San Francisco, weaving their
language into ours, mingling the aromas of their tortillas and gingered pork with our cabernet
sauvignons and sourdough rolls. They come in search of stardom, wealth, acceptance, a new
beginning. Many never find what they come looking for, but the allure persists. California is a
dream as much as a destination.
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A recreation of San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge looms above the park entrance.
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Now Disney, which has a genius for tapping into Middle America's fantasies, is turning the
California dream into a theme park. Disney's $1.4 billion California Adventure opens February 8 in
Anaheim on land that used to be Disneyland's parking lot. Though there was some early criticism that
Disney watered down some ideas to meet its budget, the result is typically stunning. California
Adventure is a visual feast. You'll find precise reproductions of California landmarks, charming
streets, and gorgeous landscaping that simulates the state's forests and farmlands. The park
is a centerpiece for Disney's ambitious effort to make the Anaheim property more like its Florida
counterpart and change it from a day hop to a resort destination that is attractive even to
honeymooners. To that end, Disney has also opened a 750-room luxury hotel, the first ever to be
built within the boundaries of a Disney park, and Downtown Disney, an eating and shopping area situated
between the two theme parks.
What distinguishes California Adventure from the Magic Kingdom is the adult appeal. Kids will
like it, but not nearly as much as they like Disneyland. This park, smaller and more sophisticated than
its next-door neighbor, was built with grown-ups in mind. You'll still find a carousel and old-fashioned
fudge, but you'll also find seafood from Wolfgang Puck, a vineyard, Broadway-caliber productions in
a state-of-the-art theater, a river-rafting ride with 21-foot drops, and a ride that simulates a
hang-gliding trip over the most beautiful spots in the state, complete with the appropriate
fragrances.
Virtual Reality
But before you venture too far into Disney's version of California, you're likely to be struck by
a thought: Isn't it odd to be visiting a simulation of the state in which you are, at that very
moment, standing? It's one thing to simulate France or Japan, as Disney's Epcot Center in Florida
does. But California? Why not just head out of the parking garage and see the actual Hollywood,
the actual Golden Gate, the actual Yosemite?
"If we do our job right," says Barry Braverman, senior vice president of Walt Disney
Imagineering, "that's what you'll want to do. We're not trying to replicate California. We're just
trying to tease, to tantalize with the best of California. It would take you a month to see all that you
can in a day here."
In truth, visiting a Disney theme park is always about stepping away from real life. Despite the
long lines, you're visiting a perfect little world where animals can talk, good always wins, and
everything is clean. California Adventure, likewise, has definite advantages over reality. You won't
find many of the inconveniences of the actual California. No graffiti, no urban squalor, no drive-by
shootings, no freeway backups (except in the Superstar Limo ride).
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The Thrill is Closed
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You’ve been planning your California Adventure vacation for weeks and can’t wait to try
the ballyhooed Maliboomer. But when you get there, it turns out the ride is closed for
repairs. How can you avoid this kind of heartbreak? Some of the larger California amusement
parks have hotlines you can call in advance to check on the status of your favorite
rides. (With Six Flags Marine World and Great America, you’ll have to take your chances.)
- Disneyland, California Adventure,
(714) 781-4565 or
(714) 781-7290
- Universal Studios Hollywood,
(818) 622-3771
- Knott’s Berry Farm, in Buena Park,
(714) 220-5200
- Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk,
(831) 423-5590
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But you often feel in California Adventure as if you're in a hall of mirrors, where reflections
are reflecting back on themselves until you stop trying to count the layers of artifice. This
is not bad, just disorientingas you'll find in the ABC Soap Opera Bistro. Inside, diners
sit in replicas of soap opera sets (all from Disney-owned ABC shows), such as the nurses' station
and Kelly's Diner from General Hospital. Waiters and waitresses are dressed as soap opera
archetypesthe ingenue, the villainand engage diners as if the diners were extras on
the set. In other words, Disney has re-created re-creations of a hospital and a diner, and re-created
characters who are themselves re-creations of characters. But perhaps it's always best at Disney
not to think too deeply but simply enjoy the imagination, humor, and technical expertise that have
created the experience.
Where Do They Come Up with this Stuff?
Braverman and his team of Disney creative executives came up with the concept for California Adventure
during a retreat in Aspen in August 1995. They considered parks focused on history, on water
themes, on California, even on Route 66. On the last day of the retreat, Disney Chairman and CEO
Michael Eisner told them to pursue the California idea. Braverman assembled a design team that
immersed itself in research. They consulted Kevin Starr, the state historian, and Huell Howser, the
host of local Southern California television show Visiting . . . with Huell Howser. They built
a library of books.
But how to condense the third largest state in the union into a mere 55-acre parking
lot?
The team divided the park into three main areas: Hollywood Pictures Backlot, The Golden
State, and Paradise Pier.
"Because our intent was to celebrate the California dream, we began by identifying the most important
qualities and attributes that draw people to this state," Braverman says. "High on this list
were: the mystique of the movie industry, the fun and relaxation of California beach culture, and
the state's scenic beauty."
He adds: "We want to give people a taste of what draws people to California, a sampling, a
mosaic of different parts of California to celebrate the different qualities that make California
special."
To draw you into the park, Disney created a main entrance called the Golden Gateway. In front
of the turnstiles, on the entry plaza that California Adventure shares with Disneyland, the word
"California" is spelled out in 11-foot-tall, metallic-gold letters, evoking the state's shiny
promise. Past the turnstiles, rising from either side of the walkway, two stunning mosaics depict California
scenes, which were created from 8,000 individually glazed pieces of ceramic tile. Straight ahead,
the Golden Gate Bridge looms, the exact red of the real bridge in San Francisco. And beyond the
bridge, framed by the Golden Gate's towers and looped cables, an enormous titanium-and-bronze sun
glistens.
Hollywood Pictures Backlot
The entire Hollywood area is about illusion, beginning with the entrance. Ornate pillars, topped
by golden elephants, are copies of a set built by famed director D.W. Griffith for the 1916
movie Intolerance. Behind the elephants, Disney left scaffolding, making it clear to visitors that
they're entering a make-believe world. Hollywood Boulevard stretches straight ahead for what seems
like blocks, with buildings receding into the distance. But this, too, is an illusion. The
"buildings"in reality just facadesat the end of the street were constructed
by set designers to look as if they're disappearing into the horizon.
The real buildings lining the boulevard mirror classic Hollywood architecture, such as buildings
inspired by the Pantages Theatre and Bullock's Wilshire. There are stores and restaurants and
the Muppet*Vision 3D, which explores the moviemaking process with Kermit, Miss Piggy, and lots
of special effects. There is the Superstar Limo ride, in which riders play the role of movie
stars riding through cartoon-style scenes of various Hollywood-area neighborhoods, such as Beverly
Hills and Malibu.
At the end of the block, the 2,000-seat, state-of-the-art Hyperion Theater will feature Broadway-quality
productions, the first being a song-and-dance revue called Steps in Time set to Disney music. And
in Disney Animation, you can peek behind the scenes to see how artists and technicians bring animated
characters to life on the screen. You can try your own hand at animation in the Sorcerer's Workshop;
visit the Beast's Library, where you'll discover which Disney character you most resemble; and provide
the voice for an animated character in Ursula's Grotto.
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The Dish on California Adventure
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Disney's new California Adventure park offers a third the rides, but the same $43 price
tag as neighboring Disneyland. If you go this summer, when the lines will be particularly long,
you will need a stratgegy to assure you get your money's worth. Here's a guide to help you figure
out which attractions to hit firstand which to skip altogether. Whenever possible, use
Fastpass, Disney's alternative to waiting in line: Check in at a computerized terminal where
you will be assigned a boarding time for later that day.
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Ride
Name
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The
Verdict |
Fast
pass
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What to
Expect
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Boudin Bakery Tour
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No
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As exciting as watching bread rise.
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California Screamin'
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YES
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Sure, you'll scream. But Space Mountain still rules.
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Disney Animation
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No
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Clever shows, interactive exhibitrs, and a personality test to determine which animated hero you most resemble.
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Golden Dreams
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No
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Sentimental cinematic romp through California history.
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Golden Vine Winery
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No
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Winetasting in a Disney park? It's true. Also charming.
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Golden Zephyr
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No
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Whirl around in a steel spaceship. Typical carnival ride.
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Grizzly River Run
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YES
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Thrilling (and chilling) white-water adventure.
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Hyperion Theater
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No
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Film clips, singing, and dancing celebrate Disney history.
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It's Tough to Be a Bug!
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YES
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3-D flick sends Bug's Life critters under your seat.
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Jumpin' Jellyfish
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No
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Soporific children's alternative to the Maliboomer.
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King Triton's Carousel
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No
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Beautifulbut nothing new.
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Maliboomer
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No
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Shoot up 180 feetthen bounce like a pogo stick.
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Mission Tortilla Tour
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No
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Highlight: a free tortilla. Enough said.
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Mulholland Madness
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YES
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Ouch! A jolting coaster with lots of sharp turns.
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Muppet*Vision 3D
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YES
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Darling, if dated; Miss Piggy fans won't mind.
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Orange Stinger
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No
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You ride in a bee, buzzing around an orange. Cute.
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Redwood Creek Challenge Trail
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No
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Gorgeous playground in a forest setting, with swaying bridges, tire swings, and a rock climbing wall.
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Soarin' Over California
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YES
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Exhilarating ride/IMAX movie simulates hang gliding.
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Sun Wheel
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No
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Great views, but a Ferris wheel is a Ferris wheel.
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Superstar Limo
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No
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You're a Hollywood star, cruising past midget-size animatronics of celebs like Cinty Crawford. The worst!
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The Golden State
The Golden State area celebrates the gifts nature has bestowed on California and how Californians have
utilized them. You won't want to miss the most innovative ride in the park, Soarin' Over
California. Eighty-seven people buckle up into banks of seats inside a theater. The entire
seating mechanism flies up toward a concave screen, where for the next four minutes you'll feel as
if you're hang gliding over 12 locales, including the Napa Valley, Palm Springs, Yosemite, and Lake
Tahoe. Wind and scents are pumped through vents over the seats to enhance the experience.
The 110-foot-tall Grizzly Peak dominates the Golden State area. At the base of this craggy,
granite-looking formation that resembles a bear's head, a real vineyard has been
planted. The Grizzly River Run takes you through river rapids down the mountain.
In the Golden State area, you will also find the Pacific Wharf district, where you can take a
tour of the Mission Foods tortilla-making factory, see how Boudin Bakery makes its famous
sourdough bread, and sip wine at Robert Mondavi Winery's winetasting room and fine-dining
restaurant.
Paradise Pier
The most un-Disney part of the park is Paradise Pier, built to resemble an old-fashioned seaside
amusement park with a huge Ferris wheel, a carousel, and a classic-looking but very fast roller coaster
that goes upside down. The area will be fun for the kids but lacks the inventiveness visitors expect
from Disney. Disney re-creating an old-time amusement park is like Wolfgang Puck re-creating an
authentic grilled cheese sandwich.
Along those lines, some might balk at the cost of California Adventure, which will be comparable
to Disneyland's $43 adult admission price. California Adventure is 40 percent smaller than
Disneyland and features one-third as many attractions and shows. Even so, Disney expects about 7
million visitors a year to the new park. A new, six-level, 10,250-car parking garage, the largest
in North America, will meet the demand.
Disney hopes the new Grand Californian Hotel and Downtown Disney will attract people who
have been hesitant to spend more than a day's vacation in Anaheim. The rustic Arts and
Crafts-style hotel is the first Disney-designed accommodation on the West
Coast. (Rates start at $235-$275.) It's comfortable with enormous fireplaces and cozy places
for enjoying a quiet meal or drink. If you stay at the hotel, you have your own turnstile into the
park and your own entrance into Downtown Disney. Inspired by Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen, the
long promenade offers Cajun food, Latin dance bands, an outdoor wine bar, the House of Blues,
and shops selling specialized merchandise, such as candles, soaps, and jewelry.
Disney's replication of the Golden State is nearly perfect, but there are two
omissions. One is Silicon Valley, which Braverman admits is a great challenge. "We're working on
a show for the future, but we're struggling to find the right medium," he says.
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I F Y O U ' R E G O I N G
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Call AAA Travel Services at (800) 529-3222 for AAA Vacations packages
and special savings. Contact the Walt Disney Travel Company at (877) 700-3476.
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The other omission is Disneyland, a quintessential California institution. Of course, if
they replicated Disneyland inside California Adventure, it wouldn't be the Happiest Place on
Earth but a simulation of the Happiest Place on Earth, an earnest effort at capturing the
original fantasy. It would, like all Disney attractions, clearly be a manufactured illusion. But
aspects of it would also be stunningly creative and sublimely magicaljust like
California itself.
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