Strolling through Elk you see Victorian homes built in the late 1800s, when lumber barons like L.E. White made fortunes cutting down redwoods and sending them by sea to San Francisco. Back then Elk was known as Greenwood, in honor of an early settler family; the name changed to Elk in 1887 in part because, well, there were a lot of elk.

QUICK TIP On this stretch of the coast, you can kayak in and out of sea caves and through kelp forests. Force 10, a local kayak company, will provide you with customized tours and experienced guides. (707) 877-3505, www.force10tours.com.

The elk are gone today, as are the lumberyards. The last one closed in 1964. By the early 1970s, Elk had become a hippie stronghold. But the area has recently taken on an upscale tone, with fine dining at Harbor House Inn, serving California cuisine that emphasizes local fresh and organic ingredients, or Victorian Gardens in the nearby town of Manchester, offering regional Italian fare. The budget conscious can also eat well at Bridget Dolan’s Pub, featuring fish-and-chips and Guinness on tap.

For history buffs, the Greenwood State Beach Visitors Center Museum in the middle of town (open weekends only) has an impressive collection of books and photographs, as well as a mural documenting Elk’s history. Just up the road, along a bend in the coast called Cuffey’s Cove, stands a Catholic cemetery where many of the town’s early residents are buried. It’s a peaceful spot that looks out on the water and deep into Elk’s rich past.

If you decide to spend the night, check out the Elk Cove Inn & Spa, a sumptuous bed-and-breakfast that once served as the executive suites for the L.E. White Lumber Company. Or stay at the Greenwood Pier Inn on the edge of cliffs overlooking the Pacific and be lulled to sleep by the sound of waves below.