While other North Coast hamlets are crowded to the edge of the continent by timbered heights, this one has Gualala Point Regional Park nearby to open up the land for easy solitary walking or beachcombing on a wide sandbar. After you’ve discovered the surround-sound ocean, tide pools, shorebirds, sea lions, and maybe whales (migrating north in February), treat yourself to a river excursion. You can get a canoe or a kayak in town from Adventure Rents and float lazily on the Gualala, whose mouth forms a "lake" rimmed by chapel-like groves of redwoods.

The remoteness may have once slowed progress in Gualala—electricity didn’t arrive here until 1952—but today it’s a blessing for travelers who don’t want a designer destination. Lodgings include the comfortable Gualala Country Inn, stylish Breakers Inn, and quiet St. Orres cottages, set on a hillside.

Dining, though not cheap, can be good and varied. St. Orres has a prix fixe menu that often includes wild fish and boar. Pangaea serves organic produce and house-made charcuterie; Bones Roadhouse boasts Texas "Q" (barbecue). For breakfast, try Café LaLa where you can get eggs Sinatra (your way).

To view the work of artists inspired by this marine setting, visit the Gualala Arts Center and its retail outlet, the Dolphin Gallery & Shop. The Cypress Village building holds a cluster of boutiques with imaginative creations; noteworthy are the sculptures at Stewart-Kummer Gallery, ceramics at Henley’s Art & Interiors, and apparel, shoes, and gifts at Red Stella.