On the Road:
Getting Into Hot Water |
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By Matt Samelson
M
any an Old West highway passed by hot springs. Dusty travelers relished bathing and relaxing in the
warm mineral waterswhich were believed to have curative powers. The allure of a good soak still
holds. In addition to the well-known hot springs, such as those in Calistoga, Calif., and Yellowstone
National Park, you might be surprised to find some off the beaten path:
Sierra Hot Springs, Sierraville, Calif., (530) 994-3773,
www.sierrahotsprings.org. Tucked into the
pines above a high alpine valley, a large copper geodesic dome seems a little out of place until you
walk inside. Here, candles, stained glass, skylights, and three pools create an atmosphere of airy
relaxation in the Temple Dome. This is just one of several inviting areas at the clothing-optional
Sierra Hot Springs, 25 miles north of Truckee near Highway 49.
An outdoor "medicine bath" is designed for quiet contemplation. The Temple Dome includes an interior
hot pool and two cooling pools. Outside the dome, there's a swimming pool and sundeck. Private baths are
also available. The lodge, built in the 1860s, has five private rooms and a dormitory. The entire property
sits on 700 acres bordering the Tahoe National Forest. Camping is permitted on the grounds, and the
Globe Hotel, in the town of Sierraville, is owned by the hot springs. Visitors to the hot springs must
purchase a membership at $5 for 30 days or $20 for a year.
Steamboat Hot Springs, Reno, Nev., (775) 853-6600.
The Paiute war chief Winnemucca reportedly encouraged miners en route to the California gold hills to
enjoy these soothing waters. But when news of the silver strike at Comstock reverberated across the
nation, the springs became a focal point of the area. Mark Twain even penned "Cure a Cold," a story
about the springs, while living in nearby Virginia City.
In the current spa, superheated steam and cool mineral spring water are mixed in an artesian
well. The comfortable water (102-104ÞF) is then pumped into seven private indoor tubs and one outdoor
flow-through tub. Massages, body wraps, and healing stones are available. Reservations are recommended and
admission is $14 per person.
Kah-Nee-Ta High Desert Resort, Warm Springs, Ore., (800) 554-4786. Riding down a 140-foot
waterslide into a warm Olympic-size pool doesn't really fit the back-to-nature hot springs concept, but
it's sure to make you smile.
The resort is on the Warm Springs Reservation, about 45 miles southeast of Mount Hood. It also offers
kayaking, horseback riding, and salmon bakes. The resort's Spa Wanapine provides amenities such as
massage, exfoliation, and aromatherapy.
Ouray Hot Springs Pool, Ouray, Colo., (970) 325-4638. Nestled in the San Juan Mountains of
southwest Colorado and known as the "Switzerland of America," Ouray is home to five hot springs. The
most prominent, Ouray Hot Springs Pool, resides in the heart of the postage-stamp town.
Opened in 1926, the million-gallon pool has three sections: a hot soaking area, a body-temperature
shallow zone, and a deep end with lap lanes. If the pool isn't relaxing enough, the adjoining fitness
center maintains massage facilities. The town, a National Historic District, offers many outdoor
activitiesfrom hiking and biking during the summer months to skiing at nearby Telluride in the
winter.
Burgdorf Hot Springs, Burgdorf, Idaho, (208) 636-3036. Frequented by gold miners in the
1860s and '70s, rustic Burgdorf is deep in the Payette National Forest, about 45 miles north of
McCall. Its 14 cabins are perfect for those who want to rough it. Each cabin has a wood-burning stove but
no electricity.
Burgdorf has two pools. Water enters the sandy-bottomed springs at 112oF and flows into the main
pool (5 feet deep) at 104oF. A shallow pool, ideal for children, is nearby. Although
Burgdorf appears on many maps, it has more ghosts than town to it. An unimproved road, open from
mid-May to November, provides access to the springs. During winter months, the springs can be reached
on cross-country skis or by snowmobile.
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