By Peter Jaret

At sunset, a lone kayak slips across Tomales Bay. A tall young woman wriggles out, pulls the boat ashore, and soon joins a boisterous group of locals at the bar at Nick's Cove, a resurrected restaurant in Marshall on California’s Highway 1.

In the 1930s, Nick and Frances Kojich started a seafood eatery, which operated here until the 1990s. Restaurateur Pat Kuleto and chef Mark Franz bought the outpost in 1999, and nine years later it’s hopping again. The collection of wooden buildings, some on pilings, retains its funky charm. The place is decorated with trophy game and fish from the original Nick’s, along with paintings modeled on historic photos.

Thanks to a deep menu and plenty of counter space by the open kitchen, anyone can stop in for a quick cheeseburger ($12) or fishand-chips made with lingcod ($11). Leisurely diners settle at tables by the bay for fare such as halibut on toasted faro or grilled butterfish over coconut rice (from $17).

Oysters are a specialty, harvested the day they’re served—raw, grilled, or fried. The menu showcases local cheeses, breads, and wines. Twelve luxurious cottages are available to rent (from $300). (415) 663-1033, www.nickscove.com.