By Mickey Butts

You won’t see rolling green vineyards along the emerging "urban wine trail" on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay, but you will find expert winemaking and welcoming tasting rooms. www.eastbayvintners.com.

DASHE CELLARS AND JC CELLARS Oakland. The French American couple behind Dashe is best known for rich and spicy zinfandels; JC’s Jeff Cohn experiments with gutsy syrahs and other rhône-style wines. (Cohn is also the winemaker at Rosenblum, next page.) Last year Dashe and JC moved in together near Jack London Square, where some 900 barrels are stacked beside the new no-frills tasting area. Both are at 55 Fourth St. Dashe: (510) 452-1800, www.dashecellars.com. JC Cellars: (510) 749-9463, www.jccellars.com.

ENO WINES AND HARRINGTON WINES Berkeley. Two meticulous vintners craft tiny lots in an ivy-covered warehouse that's been a winery since the 1970s. While they share a passion for pinot noir, Eno also turns out syrah and zinfandel. 805 Camelia St. Eno: (415) 515-7227, www.enowines.com. Harrington: (415) 824-1824, www.harringtonwine.com.

LOST CANYON WINERY Oakland. With its bare-brick walls and mahogany bar, Lost Canyon Winery has the East Bay’s slickest tasting room, offering delicate pinot noirs and soulful syrahs. 2102 Dennison St., Ste. A, (510) 534-9314, www.lostcanyonwinery.com.

ROSENBLUM CELLARS Alameda. In the cavernous Sawtooth Building near the old naval air station, this granddaddy of bayside wineries produces more than 40 fruit-forward wines, from chardonnay to zinfandel. 2900 Main St., (510) 865-7007, www.rosenblumcellars.com.